Cooking for Men

Starters from Trevor Hopkins (email)
Butternut Squash Goop Asparagus and Hollandaise Green Lentils with Anchovies Cock a Leekie Soup
Ceviche Griddled Halloumi Assiette de Fromage Rocket and Parmesan Salad
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A few ideas for a first course at the dining table. Ideally, a first course should be something light which can either be mde very quickly, or prepared well in advance. That way, you will have time to chat to your guests when they arrive.

Butternut Squash Goop

Butternut Squash This is a particular favourite of Tracey's. First, peel your Butternut Squash. I prefer to use a large and strong metal potato peeler - plastic or ceramic ones are just not tough enough. The overall effect is very much like trying to scrape off the surface of a melamine kitchen worktop!

Top and tail the peeled squash, halve and remove the pips and then chop into one inch cubes. (Use a big knife!) Chuck into a large pan with a knob of butter and some freshly-ground black pepper, sear briefly, then allow to simmer for 30 minutes until the squash is soft.

Cook slowly half a dozen slices of pancetta. I tend to do this on the griddle, over a low heat, using a heavy metal baking tray on top of the pancetta so that it keeps flat. You want to get the pancetta cooked very crispy, but still remain all in one piece.

Once the squash is cooked, tip the pan contents into a food processor and whizz up. Add a splash of double cream to make a smooth (and very orange-coloured!) goop.

Boil up a chicken stock cube and a vegetable stock cube with about a quarter-pint of water. Once it's boiling, add a large handful of strong-flavoured grated cheddar cheese.

Ingredients

(Serves 6, as a starter)

One large Butternut squash

Half and ounce of butter

Freshly-ground black pepper

Six slices of pancetta (or streaky bacon)

Two portions (each 25ml) of double cream

One chicken stock cube

One vegetable stock cube

Three ounces of grated mature cheddar cheese

Stir the stock vigourously until all the cheese has blended with the stock. Add another splash of double cream to finish - this should form a thick and cheesey white sauce.

You can serve this dish in two ways. For a starter for a dinner party, divide the bright orange goop into six tall, narrow and heat-proof glasses - I use the glasses which came with the punch bowl. Pour the cheesy sauce over the top - you should see a clear line between the orange goop and the white sauce. Break the pancetta splaces in half and add two or three slices as decoration. Serve with long-handled spoons and slices of crusty bread.

Alternatively, for a light dinner for two, divide the butternut squash goop into two bowls, making a depression in the middle. Pour the cheesy sauce into the dip, decorate the dishes with the pancetta and serve.

Asparagus and Hollandaise [ top ]

This one's a bit of an oddity - at least the way I make it. I use a very conventional method for the Hollandaise sauce - which can be made well in advance - and then microwave the asparagus.

First the sauce. You will need a thick old-fashioned basin, about 5 inches diameter, and a small saucepan into which the bowl will fit without resting on the bottom. (No one has those double-boiler saucepans designed for this task any more!)

In the saucepan, put two tablespoons of white wine vinegar - preferably tarragon vinegar. Add the same quantity of cold water. Add to the liquid a large dried bayleaf (or a fresh one from the garden) and four or five black peppercorns - these should be whole, not ground or crushed.

Boil up the liquid in the saucepan until about half has evaporated. (Don't let it boil dry!) Let the liquid cool slightly.

Separate an egg, discarding the white and put the yolk only into the bowl. Using a whisk, gently beat the egg yolk, then strain the vinegar from the saucepan into the bowl. Whisk up again.

Cut into lumps about four ounces of butter. The lumps should be about half-an-inch on a side.

Ingredients

Two tablespoons tarragon or white wine vinegar

One bayleaf (dried or fresh)

Five whole black peppercorns

One egg yolk, separated

Four ounces of butter

Quarter-pound fresh asparagus

Discard the bayleaf and peppercorns, and fill the saucepan about a quarter-inch deep with cold water. Place the bowl over the saucepan, and apply a low heat. The objective here is to get the water to bubble gently, rather than a fast boil.

While whisking the egg mixture, add the lumps of butter one or two at a time. The butter should melt and combine with the eggs to form a thick sauce. Once all the butter has been whisked in, remove the bowl from the heat and allow to cool. (This sauce is traditionally served luke-warm.)

The asparagus is easy. Wash a quarter of a pound of asparagus tips, and cut off any dried-out parts. Put in a microwave-safe dish, and add just a splash of water and the smallest pinch of salt. Cover the dish and cook in the microwave for about 4 minutes.

To serve, place the asparagus on two plates, and drizzle with a generous portion of the sauce. Crusty fresh bread works well with this, to sop up the remaining sauce.

Green Lentils with Anchovies [ top ]

For this recipe, you should you whole lentils, which are coloured green, rather than the more usual split lentils, which have the outer shell removed and are coloured bright orange. The objective is that the lentils remain somewhat firm, rather than going all mushy.

Wash a cup of green lentils and put them in a saucepan. Add two cups of boiling water and a chicken stock cube. Bring the mixture to the boil, stiring to ensure that the stock cube is dissolved. Cook gently for about twenty minutes, so that almost all of the liquid has been absorbed and the lentils are soft. Allow the lentils to cool, draining of any remaining liquid.

While the lentils are cooking, make up some of my Balsamic Salad Dressing.

Slice half a mild red onion very finely. Open a small tin of anchovy fillets and drain off all of the oil.

Ingredients

(Serves 4)

One cup of whole green lentils

One chicken stock cube

Half a red onion

One small tin of anchocy fillets

To assemble, gently stir the salid dressing into the cooled lentils to coat them, then pile in the centres of four small plates or dishes. Decorate each plate with the sliced red onion and two or three anchovy fillets. Serve with fresh crusty bread.

Cock a Leekie Soup [ top ]

Here's a modern take on a traditional favourite This is usually served as the first course of a Burns Night Supper, followed of course by Haggis, Tatties and Neeps. By the way, a Burns Night bash is the idea Cooking for Men opportunity, since it gives an excellent excuse for drinking far too much Scotch Whisky!

This is a recipe for four people, as a starter. You can of course adjust the quantities of the ingredients.

Wash very carefully and finely slice into rings three or four large leeks - make sure you have got rid of all the dirst and soil. Fry the leeks very gently in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil for a few minutes until they are just a little soft.

Add two pints of chicken stock to the leeks. I like to use stock made from the bones left over after a Roast Chicken dinner, but you could always use a couple of stock cubes instead. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for half an hour. Season to taste with salt and freshly-ground black pepper.

Meanwhile, soak 4 (or more) soft, stoneless prunes (yes, this is really traditional!) in a splash of Scotch Whisky. Alternatively, you could just use a little of the chicken stock.

Wash two skinless and boneless chicken breasts, and put them in a separate pan. Add a few whole peppercorns, a little salt, a dried chilli (optional) and a clove of garlic (also optional). Add just enough water to cover the chicken. Bring to the boil, and boil for ten minutes until the chicken is cooked through. Remove the chicken from the water, and allow to cook slightly. Slice each breast into thin slices with a sharp knife.

Optionally, finely slice a young and tender leek into long thin frgaments.

Finally, the assembly. Ladle the leek broth into four warmed soup dishes. Place slices of chicken in the middle of each dish, and add one (or more) prunes. Garnish with the finely-sliced raw leek. Serve immediately.

Ingredients

(Serves 4)

Three or four large leeks

Two pints of chicken stock, or three chicken stock cubes

Two tablespoons of Olive Oil

Freshly-ground black pepper

Salt, to taste

Four (or more) soft stoneless prunes

Splash of Scotch Whiskey (optional)

Two skinless boneless chicken breasts

Five whole peppercorns

One small dried chilli (optional)

One clove of garlic (optional)

One small and tender baby leek

Ceviche [ top ]

Ceviche is a dish of South American origin where fish or shellfish is treated with acidic fruit juices, rather than cooking it. The acid softens and flavours the fish. Obviously, your fish has to be very fresh for this to be acceptable.

Ceviche ready to serve For my version, use cooked and peeled prawns (in a packet from the supermarket). No claims for authenticity, but very tasty nevertheless!

Finely slice a couple of shallots and one small hot chilli (removing the seeds). Also, wash and chop some fresh coriander leaf - remove the leaves from the stalks before chopping.

Wash the prawns and place in a bowl. Add the shallots, chilli and coriander. Squeeze the juice from two or three limes and pour over the prawns - there should be enough juice to cover all of the fish. Stir well, then cover with clingfilm and put in the fridge for twenty minutes.

I like to serve this dish with boiled sweet potatoes. Simply wash, cut in half and boil in salted water until soft all the way through - about 25 minutes. The bland taste of the potato works well with the sharp acidic taste of the ceviche.

To serve, divide the ceviche into four small bowls, and place each bowl on a plate. Put a half sweet potato (still in its skin) on the plate. Use small spoons (teaspoons) to scoop out the potato and eat with the prawns.

Ingredients

(Serves 4 as a start, or two as a main course)

250 grams of cooked and peeled prawns

Two shallots

One small hot red chilli

6-8 stalks of fresh Coriander

3 Limes

Two large sweet potatoes

Griddled Halloumi [ top ]

Packet of Halloumi Cheese, unopened

Halloumi is a traditional cheese from Cyprus and some other parts of Greece. It is more-or-less inedible raw, but really delicious when cooked properly.

You will need 250 grams of Halloumi (a standard packet size from the supermarket) as a starter for four people.

Heat the griddle, and wipe the surface with just a little vegetable oil. You could use a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan instead of a griddle, but make sure the non-stick surface is working well!

Ingredients

(Serves 4 as a start, or two as a main course)

250 grams of Halloumi Cheese

Eight small tomatoes

Two spring onions

Freshly ground black pepper

Packet of Halloumi Cheese, opened, with knife Slicing Halloumi cheese on a chopping board

Open the packet of cheese carefully, draining off any fluid inside and put the cheese on a chopping board. Using a sharp knife (preferrably a serrated one), cut the Halloumi cheese into slices about one-eighth of an inch (3 millimetres) thick. Be careful here!

Put the sliced cheese on the griddle and cook on each side for about 3 minutes. The Halloumi should bubble and change from a rather insipid white colour to a rather nice shade of brown.

Slicing Halloumi cheese on a chopping board Serving griddled Halloumi cheese with tomato and spring onion

While the cheese is cooking, cut eight small tomatoes into quarters. Trim and finely slice a couple of spring onions.

Arrange the tomato quarters and spring onions on four plates, and add the griddled slices of cheese. There should be enough cheese for two slices each (as a starter). Garnish with freshly-ground black pepper and serve with crusty fresh bread and butter.


Assiette de Fromage [ top ]

The name means simply "Plate of Cheese", although it rather more exciting than the name implies. I find that this one is ideal for a light summer lunch - at the weekend, since a glass of a fine red wine is strongly recommended with this one. Serve in the conservatory!

View of sunny conservatory

This is another one of those dishes which come out different each time I prepare them! Certainly, I like to use those jars and packets of fruit, nuts and vegetables which seem to accummulate in the cupboards and fridge. So, use your imagination here.

First, make up some of my Balsamic Salad Dressing.

On a separate plate for each person, put a small pile of mixed greens - I find the bags of "Bistro-style" leaves is enough for about 4 people. Sprinkle the leaves with some assorted dried fruit: raisins, sultanas, chopped apricots, etc. Also sprinkle some nuts: flaked almonds, chopped hazelnuts, halved pecans, pine nuts, etc. You might also try chopped sundried tomatoes, capers or sliced caperberries.

In the middle of each pile of leaves, add a few sweet items: grapes, cherry tomatoes, dates, black cherries, and the like. Also add some olives: black, green, kalamata, whatever you have to hand. Drizzle the leaves with the salad dressing.

Now the cheeses. Ideally, about eight different ones would be best, although you could get away with less. The idea is to arrange the cheese in increasing order of strength clockwise around the place, so that your guests can savour each one in turn. If at all possible, remove all the cheese from the fridge half an hour before you intend to eat, so that their flavours are at their best.

Using a sharp knife, cut and arrange small portions of each cheese around the side of the plate, resting on the edges of the leaves. Don't be tempted to make the portions too large - eight different cheese is quite a lot!

Serve with plenty of fresh crusty bread, a glass of a robust red wine and a separate glass of iced sparkling water.

Rocket and Parmesan Salad [ top ]

A light starter for a summer lunch or dinner. The secret of this very simple recipe is to use a good quality Parmesan (strictly, Parmigiano Reggiano) cheese.

Rocket is a strongly-flavoured salad leaf of which I am particualrly fond. It also works well when combined with Watercress, another falvoursome leaf.

Wash the Rocket (and Watercress, if used). Drain well, and place in a deep bowl. Add a couple of tablespoons of my Balsamic Salad Dressing and toss briefly with a couple of forks. Divide onto two small serving plates.

Sprinkle each plate with half a teaspoon of pickled capers and a tablespoon of marinated black olives. Coarsely grate or shave an ounce of Parmesan cheese over each plate. Top each plate with a little freshly-ground black pepper and a pinch of dried (or fresh and coarsely chopped) Oregano (optional). Serve immediately, with fresh crusty bread.

Ingredients

Two ounces of Rocket leaves

One ounce of Watercress (optional)

2 ounces of Parmesan Cheese

One teaspoon pickled capers

Two tablespoons of marinated black olives

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of dried Oregano (optional)


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