This is another one of those traditional dishes which seem so straightforward, but where the success is in the details. My preference is for quite long, slow cooking, so that the meat is well-done all the way through, without becoming dry.

I prefer to use a rolled and boned joint, so that it is easy to carve. Wash the meat, and put on a trivit in a roasting pan. (Using a trivit ensures that the meat does not rest in the cooking juices.) Pour a splash of cooking oil over the meat, and sprinkle with a generous quantity of freshly-ground black pepper and a little salt.

Boil a kettle of water, and pour a quarter of a pint into the botton of the roasting pan. This helps to prevent the meat from drying out. Put in a pre-heated oven at 180C (Gas Mark 5) for 25 minutes per pound weight, plus an extra twenty-five minutes.

Once the meat is cooked, remove from the oven and put on a warmed carving dish. Keep warm for ten or so minutes - you can use aluminium foil to cover the meat while it rests. The juices from the pan can be used to make gravy.

Carve at the table into really thin slices. Make sure your carving knife is really sharp! Serve with Roast Potatoes and Cauliflower Cheese, or perhaps just microwaved peas.