Traditionally, smoked haddock is served with poached eggs and, on this occasion, I'm very happy to go along with tradition! This is a particular favourite of Tracey, my wife.

For preference, get undyed smoked haddock fillets. These are a pale cream colour. The yellow colour of the traditional smoked haddock is these days just added food colouring.

Wash the fish and cut into portions. (A single fillet usually makes a generous portion for two people.) Place in a large shallow frying pan (a wok works well, too!), and cover with cold water and a little milk (about one-quarter of the liquid should be milk). Add a little freshly-ground black pepper, but no salt.

Slowly bring the liquid to the boil, and simmer for about six minutes. Then, turn off the heat and leave for a couple of minutes. While the fish is cooking, poach some eggs - one or two per person. (You don't need me to tell you how to do this, do you? You do? See here.)

Drain the fish and place on warmed plates with the poached eggs. Garnish with some finely-chopped chives, or perhaps a little parsley - if you can be bothered first thing in the morning, of course - and serve with hot-buttered brown toast.